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#JOHN DEERE TRACTOR FUSES MANUAL#
#JOHN DEERE TRACTOR FUSES FULL#

If you take it out and all you see is some corrosion on the tips, grab a file or sandpaper, clean it up a bit, and put it back. Maybe it wasn't sitting properly in the fuse box and just needs a snap back in place. It's not always necessary to change the fuse. "Just take a look and see if you see any burnt areas, any gray areas within the housing of the fuse, and then also you could check to see if the contact points are broken inside the fuse," Kershner says. Pull the fuse out of the receptacle, and hold it up to good light, such as sunlight or a light bulb in the shop.

#JOHN DEERE TRACTOR FUSES MANUAL#

You'll see several fuses - your owner's manual will tell you what each one is for. Squeeze the ends of the fuse cover holder, and remove it. To investigate a suspect fuse, raise the hood of the tractor or wherever the fuse box is located. Kershner says check the fuses about once a year if the electrical system is working fine.

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Tractor seems to start and run fine, was below freezing when it finally got it to send some fuel and it was turning pretty slow, but still popped right off. Thanks! I wondered what that all was about. Unplug and Replace it when you are servicing the tractor's coolant system sometime. They short out internally then ground out the power wire to injection pump. The temperature sensor is for the cold start advance in the injection pump. Found out it was the cold weather advance solenoid. My dad called and said he got it going - I'm a little unclear but if I understood him correctly there is a temperature sensor in the thermostat housing that had gone bad and was "telling" the fuel pump that the engine was overheated and was blowing the fuse to shut off the tractor. I wonder if the switch on the bottom of the injection pump is an overspeed switch? Certainly wasn't overspeeding when I got it started.

#JOHN DEERE TRACTOR FUSES FULL#

Radiator was full of coolant and tractor ran and idled normally. I think it can blow as a result of one of those two switches being closed?Īnyway I unplugged that wiring harness from the injection pump and the fuse stayed in and the tractor runs now, I didn't reconnect it to see if it would blow the fuse again since I was out of fuses! Need to do that today. The second wire runs to a switch or sending unit screwed into the coolant passage leading to the top radiator hose and then on to a small switch of some kind on the bottom of injection pump before returning to the ground screw on top of the injection pump as I remember. If there are 2 wires on the "hot" terminal on top of it, one will be from the key switch by way of the fuse.

Might be a similar circuit on that one as I found on our 5420 yesterday. Anybody got any ideas as to what could be happening? It ran a while with the new fuse so it doesn't seem to be a dead short. This fuse is in the starting circuit I believe, seems like something is heating up and drawing too much current when it does. The fuse was replaced this morning, tractor cranked and ran 5-10 minutes and then shut off (blew the same fuse ). We've got a JD 6310 that blew fuse # 101 (30A ) yesterday.